Driving South in Search of an Elusive Dish

The ranks of old-school Cantonese Chinese restaurants are dwindling, and some of those that remain haven’t resumed dine-in service since the pandemic put a halt to it. So when I learn of one within a reasonable distance from my suburban Philadelphia home, you can rest assured that it won’t take me long to check it out. 

A couple weeks ago, that meant crossing the Delaware River to try Hunan East in Turnersville, New Jersey. I followed that up Thursday by heading south on I-95 to Aberdeen, Maryland, to meet my friend, Joe, for lunch at Lee’s Hunan, which has been around since 1984. 

I was especially eager to visit Lee’s after seeing online that they serve paper chicken – a.k.a. chicken in foil. What’s more, they include both that and shrimp toast as part of their PuPu Platter. That was common during the later stages of the Cold War, but I can’t remember the last time I saw it. In fact, paper chicken is very difficult to find at all nowadays. I’m only aware of one place in the Philly region that still serves it.

Lee’s sits in a large shopping center. There is nothing particularly interesting about its exterior, but the interior has the look of a late 20th century American Chinese restaurant – and a menu to match. 

As I knew well in advance what I’d be ordering I didn’t pay close attention to the menu. If I had, something that I’ll get to shortly would have jumped out at me.

One thing I did notice was the page of cocktail illustrations that was straight out of my youth. Joe and I abstained, as we both had to drive over an hour to get home – he lives near Washington D.C. 

In addition to the PuPu Platter, I ordered sweet and sour shrimp. Joe opted for beef-noodle soup, which was listed on the specials board we passed on our way in.

The PuPu Platter was brought out first and it was impossible for me to not immediately notice a lack of foil on the round serving tray. When I asked about it, I was told they stopped serving paper chicken a few months ago. First the Super Bowl – now this. To make matters worse, it was replaced, both on the menu and as part of the Platter, with that most boring of all Chinese appetizers – fried chicken wings. 

I managed to maintain my composure with some difficulty and proceeded to take photos of the otherwise very attractive tray and the flaming hibachi at its center. 

It was still nice to have the shrimp toast, as well as egg rolls included. Some places have replaced the latter with spring rolls on the PuPu Platter.

As is always the case, I enjoyed heating my beef stick on the little grill.

Joe’s bowl of beef-noodle soup turned out to be enough for at least two people. But I had more than I could handle with the rest of our order, so he focused on that in lieu of an entrée while I dug into the sweet and sour shrimp.

I’ve written before about my unhappiness with this dish now being served with the sauce on the side by most Chinese restaurants. So I was delighted when it arrived with the shrimp already covered. There were also pineapple chunks, which is always a welcome sight. 

This is perhaps the ultimate comfort food for me. Sweet and sour pork was part of the earliest Chinese meal I can remember eating, in Philadelphia’s Chinatown during the early 1970s. I’ll never tire of it.

In spite of the crushing blow that was seeing that PuPu Platter without any paper chicken on it, this was an outstanding old-school Americanized Chinese meal. And as Lee’s is almost exactly halfway between our homes, Joe and I decided this won’t be the last time we’ll meet there for lunch.