When I started blogging about cheesesteaks, I would go just about anywhere in the Philly area to try one without worrying about where each steak fit in the local pantheon or my rankings. I’ve gotten away from that more recently as I always seem to be revisiting one of my past favorites or trying the latest steak to attract the attention of the masses on Facebook.
But for whatever reason, when it came time to decide where I’d eat my next steak this week, I had a sudden hankering to go somewhere unheralded – a place that rarely, if ever comes up in the social media cheesesteak groups. And I had one in mind.
Tony Roni’s is a small chain of pizzerias in the Philadelphia region that also features a large array of sandwiches. I’ve had their pizza a couple times and liked it, but had never tried one of their steaks. One of their outlets – in Willow Grove, PA – is nearby and on the way to my father’s place, which I visit every week. I’ve sworn to stop there for a steak some time on numerous occasions and finally did so Tuesday.
They don’t offer Cooper Sharp at Tony Roni’s, so I ordered my cheesesteak with American cheese and fried onions on an optional seeded roll from Liscio’s Bakery.
I’ve touched on the extent to which Liscio’s rolls vary. This one was softer than I prefer, but it was very fresh and had a pure chew that I enjoyed more than I expected to.
As you can see in one of the above photos, there was an issue with the meat not being evenly divided between the two halves. That’s an obvious flaw that I’ve experienced at a surprising number of places.
Nonetheless, I don’t have the sort of appetite that requires a massive amount of meat and cheese and found myself satisfied even with the light half after having already eaten the heavier one. What mattered more to me was how well the steak was seasoned and the American cheese was blended in with the meat. It may look like there wasn’t enough cheese in the photos, but I felt it in nearly every bite.
It sometimes feels like a nice change of pace when I have American cheese instead of Cooper Sharp on a steak. The American has a more neutral flavor and allows the meat to shine through, while Cooper Sharp, at least when used in excess, can overwhelm the flavor of the meat.
This may not have been one of the best steaks I’ve ever had, but so what? It was plenty good for a mid-week lunch. It’s not out of the question I’ll stop back at Tony Roni’s for another one at some point.
I’m not ready to stop eating the region’s elite steaks that get most of the online buzz. In fact, I’ve got one of those planned for the end of next week. But if we only eat those and don’t mix in some merely good or even average ones, it’s harder to appreciate how good the great ones really are.
BZ Maestro Eats 
I’m guessing you’ve had the cheesesteak at Mama’s in Bala Cynwyd…?
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Sorry that was supposed to started of with an “OT” although it isn’t entirely off topic…
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I had one during the pandemic when they were only open for takeout. When I unwrapped the steak, it was a complete mess. Much of the cheese was stuck to the wrapper. I need to go back and eat one there.
Having said that, while I respect the place as a longtime favorite of so many people, their steak isn’t really my cup of tea. I don’t like the style of roll or the way the cheese is layered on and would probably be happier with a bit less meat.
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I’ve only ever eaten them on site and it was kind of great. But, you know, I wonder when people look at colors whether they’re experiencing the same thing… Anyway my experience was very positive but certainly understand if you’re looking for something else. One thing: When I was bringing back exotic beers from Belgium to a small town bar in PA the staff had a hard time enjoying the beers as they were used to Rolling Rock etc so they had that “beer” expectation re the taste. I told them let’s just think of them as liquids and suddenly they tasted them for what they were and really liked them. (Well, at least some of them.) Since Mam’s is not that traditional cheesesteak, maybe it would appeal more if we called it something else…?
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It’s long been my theory that Mama’s appeals most to people who either grew up eating them or who are not from this area and didn’t grow up eating steaks at all, so – as you say – their expectations are not set. I don’t fit into either of those categories. But as I said, I do intend to give them another shot, probably pretty soon.
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Welcoming a change from Cooper Sharp to American is hard to understand for those of us who live in a Cooper Sharp desert.
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