One Shop’s Constant Quest for a Better Cheesesteak

It’s always great to see a restaurateur for whom “good” isn’t good enough, and the owner of Stoli’s Steaks in Northeast Philadelphia unquestionably falls within that category. 

When I first posted on Stoli’s last year, my main issue with their cheesesteaks was the soft roll they used. Then I returned earlier this year after reading that they had switched to rolls from Sarcone’s, my favorite Italian bread bakery in the area. The result of the change was extremely positive, putting their steak into contention for my updated best-of list, which will be out in November. 

So it was with great surprise that I read on Facebook recently that they’ve changed roll suppliers yet again. My initial reaction was that it’s crazy to mess with an already excellent product. But a little more consideration reminded me that there are a couple other popular steak shops within a relatively short ride of Stoli’s that are also serving their sandwiches on those same Sarcone’s rolls. Under such circumstances, seeking out another roll that will separate them from the pack makes perfect sense – at least if the new roll is a truly great one. And the early online scuttlebutt was that it is indeed a game-changer.

With that in mind, I headed over there for an early lunch Tuesday to find out for myself if the hype was justified.

After placing my order, I grabbed a birch beer out of the refrigerated case and a stool by the counter that is the only indoor option for eating on-site at Stoli’s.

Their menu is a long one, and I may explore it further at some point, but as was the case for my two previous visits, I was strictly interested in a cheesesteak.

When writing about those two earlier steaks, I erroneously said they use New York Strip instead of ribeye at Stoli’s. That’s what their website indicates, but that apparently hasn’t been updated for a number of years – which is why I linked to their Facebook page in the top paragraph above. The grill chef confirmed that they use ribeye and have for a long time.

I was correct, on the other hand, about their use of New Yorker American cheese instead of Cooper Sharp and ordered my steak with both that and fried onions.

The place was empty due to my early arrival and I enjoyed a little conversation with the grill chef, who may also be the owner. It’s impossible for me not to admire this guy and his constant effort to find ways to make his cheesesteaks stand out in a crowded market.

The steak was ready in less than 10 minutes and the roll did indeed look wonderful.

And so it was – at least if you like them crusty – as I do. There was a nice bit of crunch when I took my first bite. And as should be the case with a crusty roll, it also wasn’t very doughy. The toasted sesame seeds added an extra layer of flavor as well. 

If I were to update last year’s post on the best cheesesteak rolls in the Philly region, this one would unquestionably be added to that list. 

As far as what was on the roll, it didn’t appear that there was much cheese at first glance. But as I started to eat it, I felt the New Yorker American in each bite. In fact, I’d go as far as saying the meat-to-cheese ratio was fairly close to my ideal. As my regular readers know, I prefer that the cheese lightly coat and compliment the meat and sometimes complain about steaks on which the cheese is too dominant in terms of flavor and texture. Those who like a lot of cheese may want to order extra at Stoli’s, but that thought would never cross my mind.

The chopped ribeye was juicy and tender, but as was the case with my last visit, the one minor criticism I had of this steak was that it could have done with just a little more seasoning. It was not a glaring problem, but I didn’t get the flavor explosion I’ve had with a few of the other steaks I’ve tried. 

In spite of that one small issue, Stoli’s will unquestionably be on the aforementioned updated top cheesesteaks list I intend to release in a couple months. The only question is where they fall. It’s still too soon for me to know the answer.